T E A M   C L O C K W O R K   R A C I N G
"CONSTANTLY STRIVE TO BE STRONGER"
SINCE 2004


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F A Q

Q: What all does an engine swap include?
A: sr20det Engine, sr20det transmission, engine wire harness, ecu, ignitor chip, side mount intercooler, all intake piping with MAF, radiator with hoses, jdm blow off valve, jdm downpipe and all fluids. *
We also replace all of the turbo gaskets. No extra charge. *Upgrade packages are also available in case you want to add some goodies to your engine swap. 

Q: How long does it usually take to do an engine swap?
A: It usually takes me 2-4 days to complete an engine swap.

Q: What kind of warranty do engines sets come with?
A: All engines come with "Start-Up" Warranty. (The Industry Standard)

Q: What does "Start-Up" Warranty mean...?
A: The engine is warrantied to start up free of rod knocks, blown head gaskets or blown turbo.

Q: Will the stock KA exhaust fit with the SR engine swap?
A: The stock exhaust WILL bolt up to the SR downpipe. But, performance will be severely restricted by the stock piping's small diameter. *A full 3" exhaust is very highly recommended.

Q: Is it ok to run a stock fuel pump with your SR swap?
A: The real-world answer is NO. Stock fuel pumps tend to die out very soon after an engine swap due to its inability to constantly flow the amount of fuel a turbo engine requiers. *A fuel pump upgrade is highly recommended.

Q: Which engine swap is better, RB20/25/26 or SR20?
A: The debate amongst 240sx enthusiasts can go either way depending on how you look at it. The choice between SR and RB engines really is one of preference. So I present a few facts for you to consider when weighing the pro's and con's of the RB engine swap (vs) SR engine swap for your 240sx. The SR and RB series engines are both excellent, well-designed powerplants. Both show characteristics of true race performance. The SR is the more common swap while the RB is a more unique. But, when the differences are examined closely, a single fact becomes unavoidable; the difference in power is not really all that big. The RB20DET engine makes 215 bhp, compared to the Redtop SR20DET which makes 205 bhp. A difference of only 10 bhp. The slightly more expensive RB25DET only makes an additonal 35 bhp over the RB20DET at a total of 250 bhp. Now, let us address the RB26DETT. We have to be honest, if your rocking a RB26DETT, your definitely going to be the big boy on your block. But, even this "monster of RB engines" only makes 300 bhp (+/-). That is not really all that much power considering a RB26DETT engine swap can run you upwards of $12,000. And, we wont even start to cover the "parts availability" issue. So, if your budget allows for it and your honor absolutely demands it, you can opt for the RB series engines, but, in our opinion, and as you might have also concluded by now, dollar for dollar, the RB is a "rich mans engine". It is expensive horse power. The same amount of horse power can be achieved respectively with a lower budget than is needed for an RB swap if you opt for the SR series engine. Those are the facts. Now its up to you to make up your mind. Which is the better value to you?  -----By: Manny V.

*IF YOUR QUESTION WAS NOT ANSWERED BY READING THIS PAGE, PLEASE EMAIL US YOUR QUESTIONS SO WE CAN ADD THEM THE THE FAQ PAGE ASAP. THANK YOU.

SR20DET FAQ

Specifications for the Red Top SR20DET (BEST DEAL DOLLAR FOR DOLLAR)
(Found on the 91-93 180SX & Silvia)


Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205ps @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the Black Top SR20DET
(Found on the 94-98 180SX)


Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the S14 Black Top SR20DET with VTC
(Found on the 95-98 Silvia)


Horsepower: 220hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4800rpm
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
S14 SR20DET's use a different ECU and harness, these are extremely expensive and hard to find.
Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines.
The S13 uses a "low port" intake design vs. the S14 "high port" design.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The stock engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost using stock turbo. Upgrading turbo, fuel and rest of need parts will yield 300-375.

Specifications for the S15 Black Top SR20DET
(Found on the 99+ Silvia)


Horsepower: 250ps @ 6000rpm
Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio
Injector Size: 480cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: Inconel turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
This engine is expensive and hard to get. If you are on a tight budget, please consider other options as the money you save from buying this engine can be better used to build up a really nice red top.
Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed cannot be used on the S13 and S14 motors, and uses a different driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential. The 6 speed is cool, but is not as strong as the 5 speed from the older cars. There is basically 6 gears inside the same housing that was designed to hold 5 gears. This makes the gears smaller and weaker, therby breaking more often.

Power Output and Generation Specific Differences
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...le/SRChart.jpg


Basic Maintenance Items
Spark Plugs: NGK Iridium BKR6EIX-11 Gapped to .040” for stock performance.


Oil Filter:
For S13 1993 Sentra SE-R 2.0L Oil Filter
For S14 1995-1998 Sentra SE-R 2.0L Oil Filter


Arguably some would say it doesn’t matter, but it does the s13 is slightly smaller than S14, and has some tendency to pop off, if you get the new versions, and vice versa if you get the older versions for S14 it may have the tendency to pop off.


Oil
The SR20DET holds about 3.5 quarts of oil, unless you have aftermarket Oil pan.
Recommend “10W 30 Royal Purple Synthetic.”
Typically, 15w50 is recommended by some mechanics for summer and 10w30 for winter.

Synthetic oils are the best type for turbo motors, as they resist thermal breakdown longer and better than conventional oil. On turbo motors, the oil sees extra heat transfer from lubricating the turbo's center shaft.


Parts Compatability
Motor Oil Seals: Identical to Sentra SE-R SR20DE (P/N front: 15020-79E00 /rear: 12279-1N510)
Water pump is a JDM item. The FWD SR20DE is not compatible.
The timing chain kit is identical to the FWD SR20DE. 
The Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is a RWD SR20DET item only.
Water temperature sensors for both ECU and dash cluster are identical to KA24DE.
Make sure to get the same sensor as your year chassis

Knock sensor is identical to KA24DE, although the sub-harness is SR specific
Motor mounts are identical between KA24E, KA24DE and RWD SR20DET
Motor mount brackets are a RWD SR20DET item only.
Fuel injectors are identical to NA 300ZX (Z32)
Fuel Pressure Regulator is a RWD SR20DET item only
Alternator Belt P/N K050370 (Gates P/N)
Power Steering Belt P/N K040345 (Gates P/N) 
Exhaust Manifold Gasket '91 Sentra SE-R w/SR20DE 
T25 Turbo gaskets '90-'95 300ZX TT T25 gaskets (note turbo to O2 housing gasket dose not fit on S13 T25) 
O2 sensor '87 300ZX Turbo 
Ignitor chip '95 Q45 
Fuel Injectors '95 300ZX TT (purple plugs) 
Fuel Injector Seals '95 300ZXTT kit 
MAF '89-'90 SOHC 240SX 
Tranny rear main seal '93 240sx 
Slave cylinder '93 240sx 
T.O. bearing '93 240sx 
Pilot bearing '93 240sx 
Clutch 89 Nissan Maxima 240mm 9-7/16" spline 24x1 
Belts (PS, AC, alt) Gates K050370 Alt. K040345 PS & AC 
Spark Plugs NGK BKR7ES11 or BKR6 (hoter plug) 
Coil Packs '90-'95 300ZX or '95 newer Maxima 
S14 SR Oil Filter '95 Sentra SE-R 
S13 SR Oil Filter '91 Sentra SE-R 
Fuel filter '90 300zx TT
Front and Rear main seal '91 SE-R 
TPS '95 KA TPS will work with some soldering 
Temp sensor S13 or S14 (depending on chassis not motor) KA24DE temp sensor 
Thermostat '91 Sentra SE-R 
Radiator cap '90 300zx TT (slightly more pressure for better cooling over stock cap) 
Knock sensor '95 240sx 
Oil pressure sender '95 240sx


Parts that don’t match and you have to order from Japan are the starter, alternator, water pump, and head gasket.


Clutch Facts
Stock RWD SR20 clutches utilize a 240mm diameter, 24 spline clutch disc with a 25.6mm diameter sprung hub.


Fuel Pressure Regulators (FPR)
are to be set to 43.5 psi with the vacuum source hose unplugged from it. With the hose plugged in, the regulator should read 36 psi. Aftermarket fuel pumps tend to force an old, tired regulator to run higher pressure. A Walbro 255 lph fuel pump has been shown to consistently run stock FPRs at 43 psi with their vacuum sources plugged in. This will result in a slightly rich condition, which doesn’t affect drivability or performance. It does seem to adversely affect injector life, however.


Safe Limits of Stock SR20DET
Many people ask what power levels a stock block SR20 can handle. The internals have been known to support 400 whp reliably. However, that is dependent on your fuel management. Proper supporting mods must be done to the fuel system to support this number, or you will melt pistons. The pistons are the first part of the motor to fail internally. They tend to overheat and either burn holes through them, or their ringlands crack and fall apart. The crank has yet to be proven as a week point, and it's rare to see someone crack or snap one due to power output.

Is it legal to do the swap?
Yes its legal however, make sure to go to the DMV before removing the dash and touching the VIN. If you swap dashes and the Japanese dash doesn’t have a DMV approved VIN swap, cops have been known in Nevada to ticket it as tampering with the VIN.
Whether or not its legal depends on the state you live in. States without emissions, it’s perfectly legal. Good or bad, most states have followed Californias lead when mandating their own emissions standards. Currently, it is legal to perform engine swaps in California if certain criteria are met. Most importantly, the new engine you’re swapping in must be from a Nissan vehicle of the same year or newer than the vehicle youre swapping it into. The new engine must retain all of its original, functioning emissions equipment, and any aftermarket performance equipment that has been installed must have a California E.O. number assigned to it to keep your swap legal.

In order to get your engine swap approved, you need to go to a Referee Station and pay about $30 to have your vehicle inspected. The referee will inspect your installation to see if you used the same or newer year engine. Hell check operation of all the emissions equipment, and if it passes inspection hell slap an Engine Identification sticker on your doorjamb, meaning a legal record of your approved engine swap is always on the vehicle. Contact your local DMV office and ask for the number of a Referee Station near you. The person answering the phone may ask why you need to go to a referee, and your answer should be engine change. If you say engine swap you’ll confuse the employee on the other end of the line who has the power to cause you hours of endless grief, so remember to only speak in language theyre familiar with. If you’re not in California, check with the DMV.

***THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS PROVIDED AS A COURTESY ONLY***
***YOU MUST VERIFY THE INFORMATION FOR ACCURACY YOURSELF***

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